It is a warm night in December when I climb up the wide, paved stairs on to the famous terrace of the Casa de la Música in Trinidad, Cuba. The atmosphere in the falling darkness carries one away: the rhythm of live music, colourful dance shows on the stage, the dancing couples in the square, surrendered to the moves of salsa; the delicious rum drinks finished with sugary brims, my companion Maria, whom I met earlier on the gorgeous beach of Playa Ancón – all this under the soft, starry sky, wrapped in tropical warmth. If only I could dance salsa better, to dare to swing round in the happy crowd!
Due to the pandemic, I can only return to Cuba in my memories. Luckily, there were lots of memeories to gather. For example, the excursion to the rainforest on the back of the roaring lorry, up the winding mountain road. The clear waterfalls and humid greenness of the national park of Topes de Collantes were enchanting. During our hike, we also took a dip in a clear mountain lake and had lunch in the nature reserve's restaurant, which we reached accompanied by a thin rain. The excursion was a great way to combine beautiful scenery with interesting conversations with the fellow travellers. And it was obvious that the wilderness guide was proud and and filled with happiness as he presented us the miracles of nature of his home country.
Several Realities
Already earlier, I had seen the same kind of pride and sheer contentment as I talked with a wilderness patroller on the fine sands of the beach Playas del Este near Havana: the man told me he was at his happiest on the sea, that he went fishing every day, enjoying the outdoor life. It is of course important to bear in mind that not everyone is as lucky in the country as these people working in nature.
Travellers may enjoy the offerings of Cuba in their own bubble. Yet the complex situation of the country is difficult to ignore. As I talked – in my primitive Spanish - with several locals, they expressed their tiredness with the system. A traveller can do nothing, but as to the embargo ordered by the great neighbour, it does not seem to achieve much either, except deepening the difficulties of the people.
From my limited perspective, I saw part of the problem as I walked into a book shop in Havana but found nothing refreshing or stimulating to read.
Abundance of Activities
Still, the stunning, dilapidated architecture, the natural beauty, the sea and the beaches, as well as getting to know the people and their world elevated my mood. The environment in Cuba is surprisingly clean, and I also experienced great quietness and peace of mind when walking on the beaches with the waves in the background or cycling in the country roads near Trinidad.
In fact, I had got in contact with locals already before my trip as my Airbnb hostess ordered salsa dance lessons for me from her favourite dancing master Leo in Havana. Leo even took me to swing round in the famous Club 1830, where the couples danced as if they could do it in their sleep. Towards the end of my holiday, I also went to enjoy ballet in the beautiful Gran Teatro, which already in itself is an elevating sight.
From the point of view of a tourist, one could go on praising Cuba endlessly: the amazing, decaying beauty of Havana that I learned more about on a guided walk, the atmospheric promenade of Malecon with the surging waves next to it, Playas del Este with the turquoise sea, the heavenly breakfasts consisting of fresh fruit and juices and local strong coffee in the cafes and casas particulares, the western region of Viñales with its gorgeous scenery, rum and cigars, the colours and history of Trinidad and other towns, activities like horse riding, diving or snorkelling, the Cuban culture, music, dances and joy of life... In one moment, Cuba can be a calming experience, in another, it is breathtaking.
Photo Beach Pixabay Gerhard Lipold
Photo Street Pixabay Ansalmo Juvaga
Photo Viñales Pixabay Joep Wijsbek
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